Electricity Facts! Did you know… ?

Facts About Electricity and Energy 

• Thomas Edison owned the first power plant ever!  The power plant opened in New York City in 1882.

• Today one power plant can make enough electricity for 188,000 homes to use.

• Thomas Edison invented the first long-lasting light bulb.

• Benjamin Franklin showed us that lightning is a form of electricity.

• In the United States, the most common way to make electricity is by burning coal.

• The strength of an electric current is measured in volts.

• The higher the voltage number, the more force there is pushing the electric current through the wire.

• The voltage of a flash light battery is 1.5 volts.

• Just one spark of static electricity can equal 3,000 volts.

• A lightning bolt can measure up to 3,000,000 volts and it occurs in just a fraction of a second.

• Did you know that if there is a thick coat of dust on a light bulb, the dust can block out about half of the light that could be coming from the light bulb.

• When you open your refrigerator, 30% of the cold air gets out.

• Every year all around America, home refrigerators use the amount of energy that is produced by 25 big power plants.

• One amazing fact about energy is that an open crack as tiny as 1/16 of an inch around a window can let in the same amount of cold air as if the window was open 3 inches!

• Speaking of cracks in houses, over $13 billion worth of wasted energy leaks out of homes through these cracks and tiny holes every single year.  That would equal at least $150 per family.

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Old Home Wiring Danger – What is that?

Knob and tube wiring (sometimes abbreviated K&T) was an early standardized method of electrical wiring in buildings, in common use in North America from about 1880 to the 1930s. It consisted of single insulated copper conductors run within wall or ceiling cavities, passing through joist and stud drill-holes via protective porcelain insulating tubes, and supported along their length on nailed-down porcelain knob insulators. Where conductors entered a wiring device such as a lamp or switch, or were pulled into a wall, they were protected by flexible cloth insulating sleeving called “loom”. The first insulation was asphalt-saturated cotton cloth, then rubber became common. Wire splices in such installations were twisted for good mechanical strength, then soldered and wrapped with rubber insulating tape and friction tape (asphalt saturated cloth), or made inside metal junction boxes.

Knob and tube wiring was displaced from interior wiring systems because of the high cost of installation compared with use of power cables, which combined both power conductors of a circuit in one run (and which later included grounding conductors).

Many houses constructed pre 1950′s have what is called knob and tube wiring. One can determine if you have this type of wiring in your home, by closely looking at basement joists or attic rafters. To determine if your home is wired ” knob and tube”, look for ceramic knobs or tubes in which the wire gets attached to, or passes through, joists or studs. If the knob and tube wiring is not easily visible, you can usually tell by looking at your
electrical outlets and switches.

You may only have two prong outlets to plug into. Basically, no ground at each outlet or
fixture outlet means knob and tube wiring is present, likewise if you have older pushbutton switches, this is also a good sign you may have knob and tube. Nowadays, Home owners with knob and tube wiring may find it difficult or impossible to obtain insurance on their home because most insurance companies are not likely to insure a house they perceive as high risk. Insurance companies usually require a certificate of inspection and compliance from a licensed electrician, that all knob and tube has been removed and replaced with modern 3 wire grounded circuits before it will insure a home that previously had knob and tube wiring. After the electrician rewires your home, they give you a satisfactory assessment of your home, and the insurance company will consider giving an insurance policy for your house.

Historically, wiring installation standards were less stringent in the age of knob-and-tube wiring than today. Compared to modern electrical wiring standards, the main shortcomings of knob-and-tube wiring are: knob-and-tube wiring never included a safety grounding conductor; did not confine switching to the hot conductor (the so-called Carter System places loads across the common terminals of a three-way switch pair); and it permitted the use of in-line splices in walls without a junction box (and thus exposing a potential fire hazard of an uncontained spark caused by arcing following mechanical failure of the splice).

Knob and tube wiring can be made with high ampacity. However, most existing residential knob and tube installations, dating to before 1940, lack the capacity that is desired today because of the paucity of circuits. Although these installations were adequate for the electrical loads at the time of installation, modern households use a range and intensity of electrical equipment unforeseen at the time. Home buyers often find that existing K&T systems lack the ampacity needed for today’s levels of power use. Household power use increased following World War II (because more appliances were produced, and in use at the same time). First-generation wiring systems became susceptible to abuse by homeowners who would avoid repeatedly blowing fuses by using fuses with too large an amperage, thereby over fusing the circuits, thus subjecting the wiring to heat damage due to higher levels of current.

Knob-and-tube wiring may also have been damaged by building renovations. Its cloth and rubber insulation may be dried-out, thus brittle when handled, or it may have been damaged by rodents or carelessness (for example, by hanging objects from wiring running in accessible areas like basements).

Advice for those with K&T wiring:

· Have the system evaluated by a qualified electrician. Only an expert can confirm that the system was installed and modified correctly.

· Do not run an excessive amount of appliances in the home, as this can cause a fire.

· Where the wiring is brittle or cracked, it should be replaced. Proper maintenance is crucial.

· K&T wiring should not be used in kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms or outdoors. Wiring must be grounded in order to be used safely in these locations.

· Rewiring a house can take weeks and cost thousands of dollars, but unsafe wiring can cause fires, complicate estate transactions, and make insurers skittish.

· Homeowners should carefully consider their options before deciding whether to rewire their house.

· The homeowner or an electrician should carefully remove any insulation that is found surrounding K&T wires.

· Prospective home buyers should get an estimate of the cost of replacing K&T wiring. They can use this amount to negotiate a cheaper price for the house.

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When should I call an electrician?

Before you move in. It’s easier and far less expensive to do your electrical work before you redo the floors or paint.

And why should you call in an electrician? Because electricity is a safety issue. According to the U.S. Fire Administration, there are over 67,800 home electrical fires every year caused by faulty electrical wiring. Each year, these fires result in 485 deaths, 2305 injuries, and cause over $868 million dollars in property damage. Just as we use seatbelts or airbags in cars to keep us safe, so should we take safety precautions to ensure our electrical safety in our homes or commercial buildings. That means calling in an electrician.

The first thing I do for a home or building owner is a safety inspection; I’m looking to see if you have any potential fire hazards or hazardous electrical wiring.

For instance, I check to see if you have FPE, Federal Pacific Electric Panels, which are documented fire hazards.

The second thing I do is make sure all your electrical appliances are UL approved (Underwriters Laboratory approved), which means that they meet strict safety standards and compliance in the United States.

We also do a Green Survey, to find the most energy efficient lighting and appliances for your home – and it is free!

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Electrician Services – What can we do for you?

American Electrical has been serving customers in the Bay Area for 30 years (www.americanelectrical.us).

I’m Zalman Sher, President. I’ve been a licensed electrical contractor since 1984 and a general contractor since 1980. We started as Berkeley Electric in 1984, which later became American Electrical in 2000.

Growing up, my father was a wire worker in New York who made mannequins and department store displays. My father was an artist and sculptor (www.IzzySher.com). Like him, I was always extremely skilled with my hands. I started my first company at 12, doing welding projects for the neighborhood kids – fixing their bicycles and doing repair work for $2.50 an hour.

Today, I run a full-service operation dedicated to fulfilling our clients’ residential and commercial electrical needs. Our office on Santa Clara Avenue, in Alameda, responds to your calls within 24 hours.

We are also a General Contractor and are able to provide plumbing, framing, remodeling, concrete, sheet metal work and any of your other construction needs.

 American Electrical is your problem solver for all things electrical. In fact, you might have seen me on a program called, “House Detective,” which I did for HGTV. Each week, along with at home inspector, I figured out what work needed to be done – whether it was troubleshooting a defective breaker or completely rewiring a house.

Whatever your residential or commercial electrical needs or questions are, I’m confident American Electrical is your answer.

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Elecricity is diverse – How about some interesting facts!!!

Hello Readers!

So I have spent about a month talking all about the potential hazards, dangers, and information about what an Electrician can do for you and how to prevent them. Now I thought I would swutch it up and just give you some fun facts about electricity!!! These are some interesting things about electricity you may or may not already know:

Electricity is a form of life and we all need it to live. Keep reading and I will keep educating you as best I can with new tips, ideas, money savers, and hazards as we come across them..

Thanks,

Danielle

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Electrical Hazards: Some electraical hazards caused by rain can be avoided!

It’s been a much needed down pour of rain that the Bay Area has recently recieved. We all know the benefits of the “abnormal” showers we have experienced. Perhaps, this summer we won’t be in a drought, and the water companies will allow us to water our lawns! But what about the problems that come with the rain. No, am not referring to the congested streets or slippery roads… I am referring to the potential electrical hazards in your home. These are small things that you may have let “slide” by until they cause a serious problem. The current wet weather may cost you more than necessary if you don’t  take the following precations:

1. Worn Electrical Seals – These are boxes located at the exterior of your home.

When the weather seal to an exterior source of electricity has been damaged, such as an exterior outlet box, it may be time to call in a licensed electrician to deal with this potential hazard. Water could potentially drip into the box causing an interruption in power and possible fire hazard.

2. Recessed Lighting – In cases where  water may have invaded your home.

If the rear components of a recessed ceiling light are covered by attic insulation, heat will build up in the unit and cause it to shut down. If that happens, the light fixture may need to be replaced. Consult a licensed electrician.

3. Entrance Wiring Drip Loop – These wires are located on the exterior of your home.

If drip loops are not properly installed, rain water can seep in and cause costly electrical damage. In some areas, the local utility company will fix it for no charge.

4. Conduit Care – Wires that are insulated by a plastic sheath.

Electrical conduit is designed to shield live wires. If any piece of conduit becomes unsecured, it should be repaired or replaced without delay.

Point being, getting a qualified electrician to inspect any potential hazards in your home can be life saving, and cost efficient. Please call us today, we are here to serve you!

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Can I afford an Electrician? Yes you can!

1. How much do your services cost?

We have a few different ways of pricing our services. Please call for a free estimate anytime (510-521-2423).

We charge $150 per hour, with a one-hour minimum for service calls for one journeyman electrician and service vehicle.

For larger time jobs, we charge $1200 a day (only $75 per man hour) for one journeyman electrician (with at least 4 years’ experience), one apprentice electrician’s assistant and service vehicle.

We offer unit pricing: a unit is one plug, light, or switch, for example. Unit pricing varies depending on the quantity, difficulty, and occupancy of the building and can range anywhere from $100 to $300 per unit for residential and commercial spaces.

We also offer planned bidding, which is pricing based on architectural plans, or drawings done by you, the homeowner, or American Electrical.

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Electrical Definitions: AFCI’s – Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters

-THE AFCI

The “AFCI” is an arc fault circuit interrupter. AFCIs are newly-developed electrical devices designed to protect against fires caused by arcing faults in the home electrical wiring.

-THE FIRE PROBLEM

Annually, over 40,000 fires are attributed to home electrical wiring. These fires result in over 350 deaths and over 1,400 injuries each year. Arcing faults are one of the major causes of these fires. When unwanted arcing occurs, it generates high temperatures that can ignite nearby combustibles such as wood, paper, and carpets. Arc faults may occur for many reasons such as worn electrical insulation or damaged wire, misapplied or damaged appliance cords and equipment, loose electrical connections, receptacle leakage, neutral leads pinched to grounded metal box, wet connections or conduit, shorted wires, wires or cords in contact with vibrating metal, overheated or stressed electrical cords and wires, or driving a nail into a wall and having it inadvertently hit a wire. Arcing faults often occur in damaged or deteriorated wires and cords. Some causes of damaged and deteriorated wiring include puncturing of wire insulation from picture hanging or cable staples, poorly installed outlets or switches, cords caught in doors or under furniture, furniture pushed against plugs in an outlet, natural aging, and cord exposure to heat vents and sunlight. The possibility of arcing grows as a home ages since age and time will contribute to the possibility of these conditions occurring.

Conventional circuit breakers only respond to overloads and short circuits; so they do not protect against arcing conditions that produce erratic current flow. An AFCI is selective so that normal arcs do not cause it to trip.

The 1999 edition of the National Electrical Code, the model code for electrical wiring

adopted by many local jurisdictions, requires AFCIs for receptacle outlets in bedrooms,

effective January 1, 2002. Although the requirement is limited to only certain circuits in

new residential construction, AFCIs should be considered for added protection in other

circuits and for existing homes as well. Older homes with aging and deteriorating wiring systems can especially benefit from the added protection of AFCIs. AFCIs should also be considered whenever adding or upgrading a panel box while using existing branch circuit conductors.

-INSTALLING AFCIs

AFCI circuit breakers should be installed by a qualified electrician. The installer should

follow the instructions accompanying the device and the panel box. In homes equipped with conventional circuit breakers rather than fuses, an AFCI circuit breaker may be installed in the panel box in place of the conventional circuit breaker to add arc protection to a branch circuit. Homes with fuses are limited to receptacle or portable-type AFCIs, which are expected to be available in the near future, or AFCI circuit breakers can be added in separate panel boxes next to the fuse panel box.

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Electrical Terms: Does your home have Knob and Tube Wiring? Is it dangerous??

Knob and tube wiring (sometimes abbreviated K&T) was an early standardized method of electrical wiring in buildings, in common use in North America from about 1880 to the 1930s. It consisted of single insulated copper conductors run within wall or ceiling cavities, passing through joist and stud drill-holes via protective porcelain insulating tubes, and supported along their length on nailed-down porcelain knob insulators. Where conductors entered a wiring device such as a lamp or switch, or were pulled into a wall, they were protected by flexible cloth insulating sleeving called “loom”. The first insulation was asphalt-saturated cotton cloth, then rubber became common. Wire splices in such installations were twisted for good mechanical strength, then soldered and wrapped with rubber insulating tape and friction tape (asphalt saturated cloth), or made inside metal junction boxes.

Knob and tube wiring was displaced from interior wiring systems because of the high cost of installation compared with use of power cables, which combined both power conductors of a circuit in one run (and which later included grounding conductors).

Many houses constructed pre 1950′s have what is called knob and tube wiring. One can determine if you have this type of wiring in your home, by closely looking at basement joists or attic rafters. To determine if your home is wired ” knob and tube”, look for ceramic knobs or tubes in which the wire gets attached to, or passes through, joists or studs. If the knob and tube wiring is not easily visible, you can usually tell by looking at your
electrical outlets and switches.

You may only have two prong outlets to plug into. Basically, no ground at each outlet or
fixture outlet means knob and tube wiring is present, likewise if you have older pushbutton switches, this is also a good sign you may have knob and tube. Nowadays, Home owners with knob and tube wiring may find it difficult or impossible to obtain insurance on their home because most insurance companies are not likely to insure a house they perceive as high risk. Insurance companies usually require a certificate of inspection and compliance from a licensed electrician, that all knob and tube has been removed and replaced with modern 3 wire grounded circuits before it will insure a home that previously had knob and tube wiring. After the electrician rewires your home, they give you a satisfactory assessment of your home, and the insurance company will consider giving an insurance policy for your house.

Historically, wiring installation standards were less stringent in the age of knob-and-tube wiring than today. Compared to modern electrical wiring standards, the main shortcomings of knob-and-tube wiring are: knob-and-tube wiring never included a safety grounding conductor; did not confine switching to the hot conductor (the so-called Carter System places loads across the common terminals of a three-way switch pair); and it permitted the use of in-line splices in walls without a junction box (and thus exposing a potential fire hazard of an uncontained spark caused by arcing following mechanical failure of the splice).

Knob and tube wiring can be made with high ampacity. However, most existing residential knob and tube installations, dating to before 1940, lack the capacity that is desired today because of the paucity of circuits. Although these installations were adequate for the electrical loads at the time of installation, modern households use a range and intensity of electrical equipment unforeseen at the time. Home buyers often find that existing K&T systems lack the ampacity needed for today’s levels of power use. Household power use increased following World War II (because more appliances were produced, and in use at the same time). First-generation wiring systems became susceptible to abuse by homeowners who would avoid repeatedly blowing fuses by using fuses with too large an amperage, thereby over fusing the circuits, thus subjecting the wiring to heat damage due to higher levels of current.

Knob-and-tube wiring may also have been damaged by building renovations. Its cloth and rubber insulation may be dried-out, thus brittle when handled, or it may have been damaged by rodents or carelessness (for example, by hanging objects from wiring running in accessible areas like basements).

Advice for those with K&T wiring:

·         Have the system evaluated by a qualified electrician. Only an expert can confirm that the system was installed and modified correctly.

·         Do not run an excessive amount of appliances in the home, as this can cause a fire.

·         Where the wiring is brittle or cracked, it should be replaced. Proper maintenance is crucial.

·         K&T wiring should not be used in kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms or outdoors. Wiring must be grounded in order to be used safely in these locations.

·         Rewiring a house can take weeks and cost thousands of dollars, but unsafe wiring can cause fires, complicate estate transactions, and make insurers skittish.

·         Homeowners should carefully consider their options before deciding whether to rewire their house.

·         The homeowner or an electrician should carefully remove any insulation that is found surrounding K&T wires.

·         Prospective home buyers should get an estimate of the cost of replacing K&T wiring. They can use this amount to negotiate a cheaper price for the house.

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Happy New Year – Safety Tips!

Happy New Year’s 2010

In Cold Weather

·Use the sun’s natural heat. Keep drapes and shades open in the daytime to allow the sun in and provide your home additional natural heat.

·Seal heating ducts. Over time, leaks develop in your heating ducts allowing heat to escape before it is ventilated through your home. Sealing leaks in your ducts can reduce your heating costs; 10% reduction in heating costs is very common.

·Maintain your heating and ventilation system. Have your heating system tuned and inspected annually by a service professional. A properly maintained system can save you up to 1-2% on your heating costs annually.

·Add insulation to your home. Insulate your walls and attics are properly by adding fiberglass insulation. This is one of the most cost effective do-it-yourself energy savings measures.

·Keep your thermostat at a constant level. You home cannot heat any faster by raising your thermostat. When your heating system is on it runs at the same rate regardless of the temperature setting.

·Lower your thermostat 1° F. You can reduce your heating bill by 1-3% with a 1° change in temperature. Many energy experts recommend setting your thermostat at 68° F or less, and several degrees cooler overnight. If you are leaving the home for any length of time, be sure to lower your thermostat – you will use less energy to heat the home when you return than to keep it warm while nobody is home.

·Buy an electric programmable thermostat. Programmable thermostats allow you to set your home temperature by time of day, easily allowing you to lower the thermostat when no one is home, and overnight, without having to be cold in the morning after you’ve turned the heat up.

·Keep your doors closed and try to minimize the number of times that doors to the outside are opened and closed. Each time you open the door, is allows cold air to enter your home.

·Close your chimney vent / flue. Heat can escape through an open chimney flue; make sure the flue is closed when your chimney furnace is not in use.

·Use ceiling fans to help distribute heat evenly. Since heat rises, set your ceiling fans at a slow speed to push warm air away from the ceiling and disperse it around the room without creating a breeze. This will spread the heat more evenly.  Ceiling fans are inexpensive and found at your local hardware stores.

·Insulate your hot water pipes. Wrap pipes that are readily accessible with insulation is easy to do and fairly inexpensive. One-half inch foam or ¾” fiberglass insulation can be found at your local building supply store.

·Insulate electrical outlets. Electric outlets can be insulated with a special insulation by removing the outlet covers and inserting the insulation. Additionally, special insulation plugs can be installed on outlets that our not being used.

·Buy an Energy Star® heating system. If you are thinking about purchasing a new heating system, Energy Star® models are the most energy efficient available and will save your money, energy, and help the environment.

In Hot Weather

·Keep your thermostat at a constant, comfortable level (75 – 78 degrees) when you are home. Lowering the thermostat setting too far will not cool your home faster.

·To reduce heat and moisture, run appliances such as ovens, washing machines, dryers and dishwashers in the early morning or evening hours when it’s generally cooler outside. Also, use a microwave to cook, or barbecue outside, if possible.

·Keep shades, blinds and curtains closed. About 40% of unwanted heat comes through windows. Simply drawing blinds and curtains, which act as a layer of insulation, can reduce heat gain. Window coatings, treated plastic sheets, reflect as much as 80% of direct rays from the sun.

·Don’t place lamps or Televisions near your air conditioning thermostat. The heat from these appliances will cause the air conditioner to run longer.

·Turn off all unnecessary lighting and appliances.

·Use fans to circulate cooled air. This will more evenly distribute cool air, and can reduce the “on” time of your air conditioner.

·Place window air conditioners on the north or shady side of the apartment or house to avoid overworking the unit in the hot daytime sun.

·Replace the air conditioner filter for the start of the cooling season and check its condition monthly.

·Install or replace caulking or weather stripping around doors and windows to keep cool air inside.

·If shopping for appliances such as refrigerators, freezers and air conditioners look for the Energy Star label and purchase the most energy efficient unit you can afford. These newer more energy-efficient models will lower monthly operating costs.

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