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Mustang Parts-Keeping A Clean Trunk

September 15, 2009

If your like me, sometimes you might get a little paranoid about dirt getting in, or on your prized possession. Now must of us are level headed enough to not go ballistic every time a little piece of dirt gets onto our carpeting, or interior, but at the same time,we try to picture our vehicles with a “showroom look” must of the time, if not all of the time. Even the trunk of the car you might want to keep nice, even though only a small number of people will ever see it. Piece of mind is what I mean.A trunk mat is a good way to help out with this.

Muscle Mustang Parts now offers Officially Licensed Ford Logo Trunk Mats from Fender Gripper. These Fender Gripper Trunk Mats sometimes called Cargo mats are made from a durable PVC and are reinforced with nylon mesh for extra strength. These Trunk Mats are an attractive and useful product that protects your trunk floor and prevents items like toolboxes, first aid kits, and groceries from sliding around in your trunk. Designed to fit the 1994-2004 Mustang coupe.

Features:Non-slip material prevents items from sliding in your trunk, Strong PVC product reinforced with nylon mesh,  Soft and cushioned for protection, Completely washable, Running Pony Logo, and fits 1994-2004 Coupes.  Somthing you might want to consider if your a pony car nut, and want your Mustang looking its best!

Click link below to purchase this product:    

 http://www.musclemustangparts.com/store-products-15210-Fender-Gripper-Trunk-Mat-w–Running-Pony-Logo-%2894-04-Coupe%29_41737275.html

Mustang Engine Parts-High Quality Oil Is The Engines Lifeblood

September 7, 2009

We tend to forget the little things about our engine from time, to time when we have other things on our mind besides are car. Not too often do we try to let other thing occupy our thoughts, but sometimes very important things, like motor oil don’t always cross our minds. First, choose the right weight, the correct weight in whatever weather conditions you live is important, next think whether you want synthetic oil, or regular oil. Synthetic oil seems to do better for me, but it’s a choice by choice option. Royal Purple is one of the best synthetic oils out there.

Royal Purple Motor Oil is a tough, long life, high performance oil that delivers superior protection and enhanced performance to engines. It gains its performance advantages from a blend of synthetic oils plus Royal Purple’s proprietary, synthetic Synerlec® additive technology.

Synerlec additive technology greatly reduces engine wear, including ring, cylinder and bearing wear. It is extremely tenacious, adheres to engine surfaces and remains after shutdown, which provides protection upon initial startup. The additives in this oil are extremely good for engine wear protection, and will give you piece of mind as well.

Click the link below to purchase this product:

http://www.musclemustangparts.com/store-products-45005-Royal-Purple-10w30-Motor–Oil_41737314.html

Mustang Parts-The cold air intake to “up” performance

August 25, 2009

The way to get the performance your looking for alot of times is to guage exactly how much cold outside air that your Mustang is ramming into it’s engine. The air outside for your pony car is essential for not only keeping your engine cool, but for getting the maximum horsepower you can get out of your engine. Horsepower is the main goal here, and of course, you want your engine to be doing well in the “breathing” department.

That’s why I recommend the  Steeda Cobra Cold Air Intake Kit for 03-04. It  features a 9″ high-flow reusable dual cone filter with more surface area than single cone models to flow the most air. The Steeda Cobra Cold Air Intake Kit features a stainless steel heat shield that covers more of the filter area; shielding more of the air from the heat than the competition’s models. We also have different year cold air intakes, for almost any year of Mustang you own. 

The Steeda Cobra Cold Air Intake is good for 10 to 15 RWHP on a stock Cobra and has been dyno tested in Steeda’s Pompano Beach facility to add up to 25 RWHP on a modified Cobra.
All the necessary hardware is included for a hassle free bolt-on installation, so installing this kit is a breeze,even for the novise, who is just trying to experiment with the kind of horsepower he can get. 

<!– Compare All 99-04 Cobra/Bullitt Cold Air Intakes

–>Click here to purchase this product.

http://www.musclemustangparts.com/store-products-16001-Steeda-Cobra-Cold-Air-Intake-Kit-%282003-04-Cobra%29_41737166.html

Emissions Systems Parts for your Mustang

June 8, 2009

If your like me, sometimes the littlest thing on your ride can annoy you. For instance if your “check engine” light goes on, and stays on, that can be a huge distraction. Well this will be a short blog, but often times if your engine is performing at it’s best, or what you think is it’s best, and that annoying light goes on, it’s probably your emmisions system. Parts such as your O2 sensor, TPS sensor, (although your cars performance would tell you if that’s bad) your purge solinoid, EGR valve, or other emmisions control system parts in your Mustang that might cause the light to go on, and you tearing your hair out over it.

If that silly light still doesn’t go out after a while, you should defentelly  have it looked at by a professional If you don’t have the proper diagnostic equipment of course. Usually what will happen is that a code will come up on the tester, and then you just need to translate that code from your repair manual, or the shop that’s looking at it. The code that comes up, and  translated from the repair manual, will tell you what specifically is wrong, and what needs to be replaced. Sometimes the computer in your ride will need to diagnose that particular problem before the light goes out. But it should go out on it’s own. Just remember to have that checked out. Even if your pony car is running like a champ, you want your emmissions system functioning properly as well.

-Simon Black

Mustangs Lifeblood – Regular fluid changes

June 1, 2009

If there’s one thing I can’t stress enough is keeping your fluids changed regularly. Especially your oil. Your oil is the lifeblood of your engine after all, so keeping it clean is a must. Changing your oil filter is just as important. Reusing the same oil filter after an oil change is like putting on the same socks after a clean shower. Depending on your Mustangs driving conditions, every 3,000 miles, or 6 months, whichever comes first is a good idea. In extreme dusty conditions, every 2,000 miles or 3 months is a must.

Your fuel filter is one filter that’s not too bad to change somewhat regularly.  Depending on how new of a Mustang you own, every 25,000 miles isn’t a bad idea (you will probably need a special tool to release the fuel coupling from the filter as well.)  Don’t leave out your transmission. You should have a checkup on that every year. Also having your tranny flilter changed with a fluid change will maximize the life of your transmission.

As for your differential, that is a very thick gear oil that shouldn’t have to be changed but once every 100,000 miles. Unless you sumbmerge it in water of course. And no, “cruise control” does not mean the car can go for a swim. If you drive in extremly dusty conditions, you will want to have your differental fluid changed every 5,000 miles or so. Now that’s an extreme case of course, but you should check the leval in your differental from time, to time just to make sure.

Your power steering fluid is something you can tell if  needs  replacing  yourself. Look at the fluid, and smell it. If the fluid smells burned, or looks very dark, almost blackish, replace it. If you hear a “grinding” sound when trying to turn, that’s a good sign you should have that taken care of too. Regular fluid changes are a must when wanting your Mustang to have the longest life possible. Even if your not a car enthusiast, that is the surest, and cheapest way to get the absolute longest life out of your car hands down.

- Simon Black

Mustang Parts Talk/ Road Trip? Check you rides cooling system.

May 26, 2009

I can’t tell you the embarrassment I’ve felt  when on a long road trip, and having major overheating problems.  Fortunately for me this only happened once. Taking my 85′ T-Bird on a long road trip to Oregon back in 97′, and Whoosh!! All of my radiator coolant comes vomiting out of my overflow tank. My bad. I didn’t take the time to do the simple job of inspecting  my cars cooling system before a long road trip. Especially one that involves high altitude in the mountains (also the middle of July doesn’t help either.) Yes, the car was a Thunderbird, but this reigns true, T-bird, or Mustang.

Always make sure your hoses, including heater core hoses, and water pump to engine hoses are in tip top shape. No cracks, no bulging, or squishy hoses either. Those are the enemys of a properly  running cooling system. Also depending on weather you ride has the 5.0 pushrod V8, or the more refined 4.6 electronically controlled modular V8. With a motor that has a mechanical fan, and a fan clutch, you want your temp guage to remain around the quarter mark pretty much most of the time, with the exception of the AC running, a little higher up on the guage is OK.

With the 4.6 V8 however, it’s okay to have the guage needle right around the middle mark. In the case of the 4.6 Litre, it should have an electric fan, so the colling remains a little more constant. Even with the AC on, that needle should remain in the middle. Remember that a cold engine, or an overheating engine is not a happy engine,  a engine running at normal operating tempeture is.

Another thing to do is check your coolant. Make sure that the antifreeze your using is still got it’s strength. Whenever possible, you want to use distilled water when doing a 50/50 racio of coolant, and water. Tap water has minerals in it  that can slowly eat away at the radiator, and cause corrosion. Your water pump should not be dripping out of the “weep hole” which is located under trhe pump. (sign that your bearings in the pump are going out) Aso a thing overlooked too often is the thermostat. When in doubt, replace it. Before your trip, if your car has had cooling issues prior to your trip, you can put the thermostat in boiling water on your stove top, and see if it retracts. If it does, it’s fine, if not get a new one. They might run you $10 to $25 depending on where you go.

This is just my take, and experience on the subject. Maybe you’ve had a different one, but taking these precautons sure beats being stuck on the side of the road. ( on the way to OR, 3 times, on the way back, 5) If you do plan to take your Mustang on a trip of 200 miles or more, remember, don’t fix it if it ain’t broke, and just take a little time in this area to make sure you get to your long destination in a timley matter.

-Simon Black

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